RV OWNER’S FIELD GUIDE · TOWING, CHASSIS & ROAD
Toad/Dinghy Towing Setup Guide
Flat-towing a car behind a motorhome — dinghy or “toad” towing — needs three things working together correctly: a compatible tow vehicle, a proper base plate and tow bar, and supplemental braking. Skip any one and you’re towing outside the law, outside safety margins, or both.
Not every vehicle can be flat-towed
Flat towing means all four wheels on the ground, engine off, transmission in the correct mode for towing. Many vehicles — most with automatic transmissions especially — aren’t rated for this because towing without the engine running doesn’t circulate transmission fluid, causing internal damage. Check the owner’s manual’s towing section directly; manufacturer guidance on this varies and changes across model years.
A base plate is a vehicle-specific bracket bolted to the tow vehicle’s frame that the tow bar connects to — it needs to match your specific make, model, and year, not just “fit.”
Supplemental braking isn’t optional
A motorhome’s brakes weren’t sized to stop the towed vehicle’s added weight, and most states legally require a supplemental braking system on the towed car above a certain weight threshold — requirements vary by state, so check local law. These systems apply the towed vehicle’s own brakes proportionally when the motorhome brakes, taking real load off the coach’s brake system.
Wiring for tow lights also needs attention — either a diode kit or a magnetic light bar, since directly splicing into a modern vehicle’s factory wiring can damage its body control module.